Pioneer Clothing
Dressing in pioneer clothing can have a tremendous impact on the spirit of the trek. The following is a short description of how pioneers dressed.
Men’s Clothing
Shirts with long sleeves were worn loose, so use a shirt that is larger than your normal fit. Plain colors (blue, gray, tan) were common but stripes or plaids were also used (think gingham). Cotton or linen will be most comfortable and authentic.
Pioneer modifications to a modern shirt can be done:
Remove (cut off) the lapel part of the collar, leaving only the band. Your bandanna takes the place of the collar.
Remove the pocket or pockets. 1840’s shirts did not have pockets.
Pioneer shirts were pulled on over the head and only had two or three buttons. Cut the placket (where the buttons go down the front) off after about two or three buttons, leaving space for you to pull the shirt on after it is finished. Remove the buttons and placket below where you have cut it and sew the shirt together (yes you will have a seam down the front of the shirt). Then fold the bottom of the placket under and sew it down to the shirt.
Blue shirt (click for detail view)
Check shirt (click for detail view)
Trousers were also worn loose. Wool or linen was used originally. Corduroy, cotton twill and canvas trousers are good choices. You'll want to avoid wool since it is hot and denim because it was not yet invented. Common colors were blue, black, gray, and browns—especially beige and tan. Trousers were not creased in the 1840’s. See What to Pack for reasons to not bring denim jeans.
Pioneer modifications to modern trousers can also be done:
Remove the belt loops, belts were not in use in the 1840’s.
Place buttons on the outside of the waistband to button the suspenders to
Either remove the zipper and replace with buttons for a button fly, or sew buttons to the outside of the fly to simulate a button fly.
Cords (click for detail view)
Khaki (click for detail view)
Khaki with suspenders (click for detail view)
Suspenders: Men’s pants were held up by suspenders that were buttoned on the outside of the waistband, and crossed in the back. Loose pant with suspenders will actually be cooler than a belt.
Hats: Men wore a variety of hats including pilot caps, straw hats, wide-brimmed low felt hats, and round crowned hats. Buy a used felt hat from a thrift store, remove the hatband, wash it (by hand) and shape it to any style you desire. Please do not bring ball caps.
Women’s Clothing
Dresses: Women’s basic dresses were floor length. They could be plain or have many ruffles. The sleeves were full, and long, with buttons or bands at the wrists. Necklines were usually high, with buttons up the front. Fabrics were cotton in solid colors or small print. Bright colors were popular (especially bright yellow) Long sleeve blouses and long skirts or jumpers could be used. Modern pioneer young women wear dresses and skirts with lengths from mid-calf to just above the top of the shoes to avoid tripping over their skirts.
Aprons: The standard apron was six to twelve inches shorter than the skirt length. It gathered at the waist and tied. The bib attached at the waist and was pinned to the dress bodice at the top two corners. Daytime aprons were made of calico remnants. Sunday aprons were made from white fabric and did not have a bib. For trekking today, large deep pockets are important for carrying items along the trail.
Bonnets: Women wore bonnets whenever they were outside. The bonnets were made of cotton with a deep stiffened brim and back ruffle to protect the neck. They could be white, plain color, or a print, but they never matched the fabric of the dress. Bonnets or straw hats for the girls are important for protection from the sun.
Pantaloons were worn underneath the dress and were normally white. They reached between knee and mid calf. You can use scrubs or pajama pants hemmed shorter. Wearing pantaloons helps maintain modesty in trekking situations.
Men and Women
Shoes for both women and men need not be “period” style. Hiking comfort is most important. Your shoes should be well broken in, worn regularly for a couple of months. Bring two pair to alternate and to keep one pair dry.
Socks: Pack clean socks for each day.
No ball caps.
Clothing Sources
Second hand stores or borrowed clothing: Goodwill, Salvation Army, and Carolina Thrift are great sources for trek-suitable clothing.